There’s
been at least two or three rhododendron bushes in every place I’ve ever lived.
I used to think it was a shrub that once planted, you just let it go and grow.
When I moved to Bradford, I learned that with a little care, rhodies can be
even more beautiful.
This
past week I had a couple sections of stockade fence installed and decided to
get new rhodies to go in front to pretty up the blank wall. (Later I will add
my flair of painting – purple, of course! – along with some other decorating.)
Rhododendrons
(rhodies) are a familiar spring blooming shrub that usually stands out because,
not only the size of the plant itself, but for the large clusters of showy
flowers. Rhodies belong to the genus of rhododendron and are the largest
genus in the Ericaceae family. There are over 1,000 different species in the
genus. The Ericaceae family also includes azaleas, heather, cranberries,
blueberries, mountain laurel and more. Rhododendron is from the Greek and means
rose tree.
All
azaleas are in the rhododendron family but not all rhodies are azaleas. It
depends on the subgenus and types of leaves. The
leaves for the smaller azalea
are usually pointed and narrow; the leaves of the rhododendron are generally large, leathery and paddle-shaped,
although that can depend on the particular species/subspecies.
Note: Rhododendron are toxic to humans and pets. Do not eat any
part of the plant! There is a lot of talk about the toxicity to bees and what
is called “mad honey.” The websites I checked had some pros and cons. From what
I can tell, the bottom line is rhodies attract bees, but as long as there are
many other flowering plants and trees in your yard, there is no worry.
Rhododendrons can
be evergreen or deciduous. The blossoms are usually tubular, funnel or
bell-shaped, and often fragrant. Individual blossoms form in a ball-shaped
truss. The flowers come in colors of white, red, pink, yellow, blue, purple,
magenta, orange and various shades thereof.
The shrubs come in a variety of shapes and sizes and leaf shapes vary in
size, shape and texture.
Rhodies prefer environments where it is neither too hot nor too
cold (Zones 5 to 8) and need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong
flower buds. Though most flower in the spring, there are also
summer-blooming varieties that add color and charm to any garden.
Planting
Most large-leaved varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep
shade or full sun. They do not like full morning sun in winter. Choose a sunny
spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect. Soil should be
well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5-6). Soggy and
waterlogged roots are the main causes of failure. The north side of a building
not under the eaves is best, protected from the wind. If you’re planting in a
more open area, make sure to choose a more tolerant species.
If you can prepare the soil in the fall for planting in the
spring. (Of course, I never plan that far ahead, ha ha.) Amend the planting
area with compost, peat moss or a substitute. Oak leaves are good, too. If the
shrub has a root ball, soak before planting by placing it in a tub of water
until air bubbles disappear.
Plant the shrub in loamy fertile soil so the top roots are at soil
level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots may rot.
If the plant was in a pot, plant it so the crown is the same level as it was in
the pot.
Regular rhody care
Rhodies have a shallow root system and need consistent moist soil
and at least two inches of mulch to keep them from drying out.
Tip: When the leaves curl and twist, water immediately. Do not
allow the stress of wilting. Shade loving annuals, such as the annual
impatiens, may be planted near the rhody and will also indicate when water is
needed.
Fertilize in the fall with an acid loving material. Pine needles
make a good mulch. Wrap rhododendrons with burlap in the fall if winters
are severe. Winter burn results from frozen soil, freezing winds and cold
winter sun.
Pruning
Snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break
away from their stems. Remove dead flowers carefully because next year’s buds
are just under the old heads. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the
base of each flower stalk. Deadheading, where practical, promotes
vegetative growth rather than seed production.
Heavy
pruning will help rejuvenate a plant but may take a couple years before it will
bloom again. I personally experienced this. The first year I lived in Bradford
some of the rhodie leaves turned brown during the winter. My brother, who did
landscaping for years, said it was winter burn. He suggested early in the
spring pruning back the parts/branches that were damaged. It would not harm the
plant to cut it back to within a few inches from the soil.
I
was hesitant but trusted him. I trimmed up some of the shrubs and cut the most
damaged one almost entirely to the ground. By mid-summer, there was signs of
new life and yes, it took a couple years to bloom again. As I had never seen
this one in bloom before, I was pleased to see a beautiful shade of cream (not
like the standard purple-pink color of the most the others).
Also,
one of the bushes in a closed-in corner between the sunroom and garage was so
well-protected that it grew huge; covering almost the entire corner width-wise
and up over the roof. Again, Don said to cut it right back, not to the ground,
just to give it better shape and allow more airflow through the shrubbery. Soon
it began showing new life. How exciting!
This
week someone saw one of my Facebook photos of my newest rhododendron (rhodies).
He asked how to get rhododendrons to bloom.
Some
people are lucky enough to just have the right spot for their rhodies to
blossom well. For others, their rhodies may take a little care, especially with
the hybrid varieties.
Know
which type of rhodie you have. Some require more sun while others prefer shadier
areas (but not total shade). Realize too, as the trees around your yard grow and
change, that could change the amount of sunlight your garden gets.
So
here are a few tips:
If
the shrub is new, was it planted too deep? Rhodies have shallow roots. Only
plant the new shrub as deep as the root ball. Tip: A straight handled tool
placed across the ground of the newly planted shrub should lie level with the
area around it.
New
plants need to get established and may take a couple of years to bloom.
Adding
2-5 inches of mulch will help keep in moisture in the soil. Mulch or pine
needles permit needed air but mounding the plant roots and stem with soil may
prevent blooming.
In
the spring, fertilize lightly when the buds swell. Cut back on fertilizing and
watering in late summer. Coffee grounds worked into compost or into the soil
will boost the acidity level required by rhodies.
If
you prune off the spent blossoms, do so right after they fade. Next year’s buds
begin forming quickly and waiting too long to deadhead will remove next year’s
growth. Try to remove spent blooms before it goes to seed by holding the stem
and carefully snapping off the flower head without damaging the new buds.
After
the blooming period, check the plant for health and cut away any parts that are
dead. A rhodie pruned back a lot, may take more than one season for it to
blossom again. In this case, be patient.
Some
rhodies bloom a lot, some may not bloom every year.